johncox.typepad.com > Berlin: City of Ghosts

Jewish cemetery

Jewish cemetery

A sculpture in front of a Jewish cemetery in central Berlin. The cemetery was destroyed, by order of Joseph Goebbels, in 1943; only one gravestone remains: the grave of Moses Mendelssohn, the great 18th-century German-Jewish philosopher.


Memorial to Jewish resistance

Memorial to Jewish resistance

Memorial to the Herbert Baum Groups (German-Jewish resistance group).

http://www.juden-im-widerstand.de/en/index.html


Memorial at site of 1933 book burning

Memorial at site of 1933 book burning

This includes the famous quotation from Heinrich Heine, the great Romantic-era German-Jewish poet: "Where they have burned books, they will end in burning human beings."


Intro to Holocaust Memorial

Intro to Holocaust Memorial

Hannah Arendt wrote a great book about the trial of Adolf Eichmann. This is where the memorial begins; this article describes it far better than I can:

http://isurvived.org/InTheNews/Memorial2MurderedJews.html


Holocaust memorial

Holocaust memorial


Memorial to Communist & Socialist victims

Memorial to Communist & Socialist victims

You can see the name of Ernst Thaelmann, leader of the German Communists who was imprisoned soon after Hitler took power, and who died in Buchenwald eleven years later.


KPD SPD memorial

KPD SPD memorial

This memorial includes the names of the 96 members of the Communist and Socialist parties who were members of the pre-1933 parliament (Reichstag), and who were murdered by the Nazis.


KPD SPD memorial

KPD SPD memorial

As you can see, the memorial is prominently displayed, right in front of the Reichstag building (a big tourist attraction). And, in general -- as this collection of photos demonstrates -- there are memorials to the Nazi period throughout the city. Over the last 30 years, Germany has done a good job in dealing with its wartime past, educating its citizens, etc. (better than, for example, many other European countries with grisly colonialist/imperialist histories. King Leopold II, for example, is still a hero to many Belgians; his image would certainly suffer if everyone read Adam Hochschild's "King Leopold's Ghost," which wouldn't be a bad idea).


Lustgarten

Lustgarten

On this site in May 1942, the Baum group attempted to burn down an antisemitic/anticommunist exhibit staged by Goebbels. It was a dramatic act of resistance, but led to the arrests and executions of most of the group's members.


Members of the Baum groups (German-Jewish resisters)

Members of the Baum groups (German-Jewish resisters)

This plague adorns the front of an apartment building in our neighborhood; Sala and Martin Kochmann were members of the Baum Groups, and they organized anti-Nazi activities from their home in this building.


Willy Brandt in Warsaw

Willy Brandt in Warsaw

The German chancellor, Willy Brandt, spontaneously fell to his knees in front of a memorial to the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising while making an official visit to the Polish capital in 1970. This is considered a profound moment in Germany's confrontation with its past and acknowledgment of its crimes. The photo is of a poster for an exhibit taking place this month in Berlin. (Brandt, by the way, was a member of the SPD, and during the Third Reich was a member of a small, left-wing opposition group.)


Synagogue Mitte

Synagogue Mitte

The biggest Jewish synagogue in Berlin; it was partially destroyed on Kristallnacht, and almost completely destroyed by bombing in 1945, but rebuilt in recent years. It is emblematic of the resurrection of Jewish life in Berlin in recent years.


NPD march Dec 2001

NPD march Dec 2001

The NPD is the largest far-right, racist group in Germany. They attempted to march past the big synagogue in Berlin in Dec. 2001 (the police re-routed them in a different direction). The persistence of neo-Nazism is troubling, to say the least; but what you can't see in this photo is that 50,000 Berliners came out to protest against the racists (50,001, including myself).


Neue Wache / "Mother With Her Dead Son"

Neue Wache / "Mother With Her Dead Son"

Statue by Käthe Kollwitz, the great German artist. Kollwitz was a pacifist, and lost her son in WWI; this "pieta"-like image captures the sense of loss and despair that she (and millions of others) experienced during that war, and it has a timeless quality. It is accompanied by the text, "Memorial to the Victims of War and Tyranny," and is visited by many hundreds of people each day. Needless to say, the Nazis did not appreciate her artwork or her pacifism; her international fame prevented them from arresting her, but she was not able to work during the Third Reich, and she died only two weeks before the end of the war.


Otto Weidt

Otto Weidt

Google "otto weidt jewishvirtual library" for the story of this remarkable and courageous individual, who ran a "workshop for the blind" in Berlin and helped many Jews survive the Third Reich. (He was non-Jewish, and was later recognized as a "Righteous Person" by Yad Vashem.)


"White Rose"

"White Rose"

Hans and Sophie Scholl, college students in Munich, organized a resistance group. This street in central Berlin is named for them. They were arrested and executed in 1944.


Otto Weidt museum

Otto Weidt museum


1953 working-class uprising, East Berlin

1953 working-class uprising, East Berlin

The Third Reich wasn't the only oppressive regime Germans have suffered under; although I wouldn't compare the two, East Germany wasn't too pleasant, and in 1953 a massive workers' uprising broke out; it is commemorated in a park near us.


"Here stood one of the two largest synagogues in Kreuzberg...

"Here stood one of the two largest synagogues in Kreuzberg...

In the Nov. 9-10, 1938 pogrom, the National Socialists burnt it down."


At the "East Side Gallery," Friedrichshain district (former East Berlin)

At the "East Side Gallery," Friedrichshain district (former East Berlin)

Murals adorn a portion of the old Berlin Wall


East Side Gallery

East Side Gallery


East Side Gallery

East Side Gallery


East Side Gallery

East Side Gallery


The former Jewish cemetery in Mitte

The former Jewish cemetery in Mitte


Plaque at the cemetery's entrance

Plaque at the cemetery's entrance


small markers in the sidewalk, telling the stories of Berlin citizens deported to Auschwitz

small markers in the sidewalk, telling the stories of Berlin citizens deported to Auschwitz


posters for anti-Nazi (NPD) demonstration in Dresden

posters for anti-Nazi (NPD) demonstration in Dresden


Marker for four people who lived in this house...

Marker for four people who lived in this house...

...and who were deported and murdered '42/'43.



The former Jewish cemetery on Grosse Hamburgerstrasse

The former Jewish cemetery on Grosse Hamburgerstrasse

Moses Mendelssohn's lonely grave is in corner, right side of photo


One side of Mendelssohn's gravestone

One side of Mendelssohn's gravestone


A few other gravestones that were found, restored

A few other gravestones that were found, restored

In the graveyard destroyed by the Gestapo in 1943.


Arvid and Mildred Harnack, leaders of the "Rote Kapelle" (Red Orchestra) resistance group

Arvid and Mildred Harnack, leaders of the "Rote Kapelle" (Red Orchestra) resistance group


A surprising homage to Marinus van der Lubbe

A surprising homage to Marinus van der Lubbe

Dutch anarcho-communist who was accused of setting the Reichstag Fire (Feb. '33), seized upon by the Nazis to consolidate their rule, round up opponents, etc.


Memorial to "antifascist resistance righter Franz Huth, murdered 22 March 1933"

Memorial to "antifascist resistance righter Franz Huth, murdered 22 March 1933"

Presumably a member of the KPD, given the red star, and the date of his murder.


In the Kaethe Kollwitz Platz

In the Kaethe Kollwitz Platz


"Here lived Regina Schrimmer, born 1886...

"Here lived Regina Schrimmer, born 1886...

... deported 1942, murdered in Riga." Memorial stone on sidewalk on Auguststr., Mitte district.


Poster for upcoming concert: Daniel Barenboim & his West-Eastern Divan Orchestra

Poster for upcoming concert: Daniel Barenboim & his West-Eastern Divan Orchestra

This photo album is focused on the Holocaust and its memorialization, but one also sees in Berlin many things that are a lot more uplifting, so to speak, such as this poster for a concert later this summer.

From Wikipedia: "The West-Eastern Divan is a youth orchestra based in Sevilla, Spain, consisting of musicians from countries in the Middle East, of Egyptian, Iranian, Israeli, Jordanian, Lebanese, Palestinian, and Syrian background. The Argentine-Israeli conductor Daniel Barenboim and the late Palestinian-American academic Edward Said founded the orchestra in 1999, and named the ensemble after an anthology of poems by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe....The aim of the West-Eastern Divan is to promote understanding between Israelis and Palestinians and pave the way for a peaceful and fair solution of the Arab-Israeli conflict."


Small marker for Hermann Wolff

Small marker for Hermann Wolff

Arrested for resistance activity in July 1944, murdered in prison March 1945; 4 Riemannstrasse, a block from my apartment


"Topography of Terror" exhibit

"Topography of Terror" exhibit

From their website:
Topography of Terror Documentation Center
Between 1933 and 1945, the central institutions of Nazi persecution and terror were located on the grounds of the present-day “Topography of Terror.”

Since 1987, the permanent exhibition “Topography of Terror” has informed the public about this historic site.

The new Documentation Center and the redesigned historic grounds are opened since May 7, 2010.


Topography of Terror

Topography of Terror

From Wikipedia:
The buildings that housed the Gestapo and SS headquarters were largely destroyed by Allied bombing during early 1945 and the ruins demolished after the war. The boundary between the American and Soviet zones of occupation in Berlin ran along the Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse, so the street soon became a fortified boundary, and the Berlin Wall ran along the south side of the street, renamed Niederkirchnerstrasse, from 1961 to 1989. The wall here was never demolished.


At the "Topography" exhibit: Forced labor at Seimens factories

At the "Topography" exhibit: Forced labor at Seimens factories

Siemens (sponsor of Real Madrid football team) had at least 93 factories in Berlin, at which at least 15,000 people served as forced laborers -- including Herbert Baum and some other members of this underground resistance group.


Topography: two very depressing tales...

Topography: two very depressing tales...

...of Jewish people who, desperate to save themselves, were enticed into serving as "Jew catchers" for the Nazis.



This caption corresponds to the previous photo

This caption corresponds to the previous photo


This corresponds to the photo of the young woman

This corresponds to the photo of the young woman


"Widerstand" (resistance)

"Widerstand" (resistance)

Photo of Herbert Baum on the right.


Leaflet distributed by Rote Kapelle & the Baum Groups

Leaflet distributed by Rote Kapelle & the Baum Groups

"permanent exhibit: The Nazi Paradise. War, Lies, Gestapo. How much longer?"
This was in response to an exhibit Goebbels staged in May 1942 called "The Soviet Paradise," which was later firebombed by the Baum Groups.


Topography: persecution of homosexuals

Topography: persecution of homosexuals


That's a remnant of the Berlin Wall behind the Topography exhibit

That's a remnant of the Berlin Wall behind the Topography exhibit