johncox.typepad.com > Berlin, City of Ghosts

Jewish cemetery

Jewish cemetery

A sculpture in front of a Jewish cemetery in central Berlin. The cemetery was destroyed, by order of Joseph Goebbels, in 1943; only one gravestone remains: the grave of Moses Mendelssohn, the great 18th-century German-Jewish philosopher.


Memorial to Jewish resistance

Memorial to Jewish resistance

Memorial to the Herbert Baum Groups (German-Jewish resistance group).

http://www.juden-im-widerstand.de/en/index.html


Memorial at site of 1933 book burning

Memorial at site of 1933 book burning

This includes the famous quotation from Heinrich Heine, the great Romantic-era German-Jewish poet: "Where they have burned books, they will end in burning human beings."


Intro to Holocaust Memorial

Intro to Holocaust Memorial

Hannah Arendt wrote a great book about the trial of Adolf Eichmann. This is where the memorial begins; this article describes it far better than I can:

http://isurvived.org/InTheNews/Memorial2MurderedJews.html


Holocaust memorial

Holocaust memorial


Memorial to Communist & Socialist victims

Memorial to Communist & Socialist victims

You can see the name of Ernst Thaelmann, leader of the German Communists who was imprisoned soon after Hitler took power, and who died in Buchenwald eleven years later.


KPD SPD memorial

KPD SPD memorial

This memorial includes the names of the 96 members of the Communist and Socialist parties who were members of the pre-1933 parliament (Reichstag), and who were murdered by the Nazis.


KPD SPD memorial

KPD SPD memorial

As you can see, the memorial is prominently displayed, right in front of the Reichstag building (a big tourist attraction). And, in general -- as this collection of photos demonstrates -- there are memorials to the Nazi period throughout the city. Over the last 30 years, Germany has done a good job in dealing with its wartime past, educating its citizens, etc. (better than, for example, many other European countries with grisly colonialist/imperialist histories. King Leopold II, for example, is still a hero to many Belgians; his image would certainly suffer if everyone read Adam Hochschild's "King Leopold's Ghost," which wouldn't be a bad idea).


Lustgarten

Lustgarten

On this site in May 1942, the Baum group attempted to burn down an antisemitic/anticommunist exhibit staged by Goebbels. It was a dramatic act of resistance, but led to the arrests and executions of most of the group's members.


Members of the Baum groups (German-Jewish resisters)

Members of the Baum groups (German-Jewish resisters)

This plague adorns the front of an apartment building in our neighborhood; Sala and Martin Kochmann were members of the Baum Groups, and they organized anti-Nazi activities from their home in this building.


Willy Brandt in Warsaw

Willy Brandt in Warsaw

The German chancellor, Willy Brandt, spontaneously fell to his knees in front of a memorial to the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising while making an official visit to the Polish capital in 1970. This is considered a profound moment in Germany's confrontation with its past and acknowledgment of its crimes. The photo is of a poster for an exhibit taking place this month in Berlin. (Brandt, by the way, was a member of the SPD, and during the Third Reich was a member of a small, left-wing opposition group.)


Synagogue Mitte

Synagogue Mitte

The biggest Jewish synagogue in Berlin; it was partially destroyed on Kristallnacht, and almost completely destroyed by bombing in 1945, but rebuilt in recent years. It is emblematic of the resurrection of Jewish life in Berlin in recent years.


NPD march Dec 2001

NPD march Dec 2001

The NPD is the largest far-right, racist group in Germany. They attempted to march past the big synagogue in Berlin in Dec. 2001 (the police re-routed them in a different direction). The persistence of neo-Nazism is troubling, to say the least; but what you can't see in this photo is that 50,000 Berliners came out to protest against the racists (50,001, including myself).


Neue Wache / "Mother With Her Dead Son"

Neue Wache / "Mother With Her Dead Son"

Statue by Käthe Kollwitz, the great German artist. Kollwitz was a pacifist, and lost her son in WWI; this "pieta"-like image captures the sense of loss and despair that she (and millions of others) experienced during that war, and it has a timeless quality. It is accompanied by the text, "Memorial to the Victims of War and Tyranny," and is visited by many hundreds of people each day. Needless to say, the Nazis did not appreciate her artwork or her pacifism; her international fame prevented them from arresting her, but she was not able to work during the Third Reich, and she died only two weeks before the end of the war.


Otto Weidt

Otto Weidt

Google "otto weidt jewishvirtual library" for the story of this remarkable and courageous individual, who ran a "workshop for the blind" in Berlin and helped many Jews survive the Third Reich. (He was non-Jewish, and was later recognized as a "Righteous Person" by Yad Vashem.)


"White Rose"

"White Rose"

Hans and Sophie Scholl, college students in Munich, organized a resistance group. This street in central Berlin is named for them. They were arrested and executed in 1944.


Otto Weidt museum

Otto Weidt museum


Mendelssohn gravestone

Mendelssohn gravestone


1953 working-class uprising, East Berlin

1953 working-class uprising, East Berlin

The Third Reich wasn't the only oppressive regime Germans have suffered under; although I wouldn't compare the two, East Germany wasn't too pleasant, and in 1953 a massive workers' uprising broke out; it is commemorated in a park near us.